FLOATING TO WISSANT
a ride in a Citroën DS
Wimereux
In my 1950s crime novel, BLOOD ON THE TIDE, I describe a journey my detective, DI Sonny Russell, makes with his friend, Inspecteur Guillaume Bruissement in a Citroën DS he has been given on trial. They travel north from Boulogne to Wissant, passing through several villages. I know that part of the coast very well and can confirm that it is a most interesting drive and the villages are well worth exploring.
"The car all but floated over the rough roads
through the town and they were soon out in the countryside. They passed through
Wimereux, which showed signs of rebuilding after operation Wellhit in WW2. Then
the villages of Ambleteuse, Audresselles and Audinghen before arriving twenty
minutes later in the village square of Wissant. To one side was the squat bulk
of the 15th-century church of Saint Nicholas, next to it the WW1
memorial. Nearby was the half-timbered Hotel Normandy and on the other side of
the road, a low stone building, with a tractor and substantial wooden fishing
boat on a trailer standing outside. ‘That is a flobart, a fishing boat particular to this region,’ Bruissement explained, as he got out of the car. ‘The
tractor takes the boat down to the beach and launches it into the sea. They
catch some wonderful fish that are served fresh here in Le Vivier!’ Russell,
getting out of the car to stand beside him, smiled."
Ambleteuse - Fort Mahon
Audresselle
We even made up this little rhyme, to the tune of, 'Do you know the muffin man!
Savez-vous l'homme du moule, l'homme du moule, l'homme du moule.
Savez-vous l'homme du moule, l'homme du moule, l'homme du moule
Qui habite a Audresselles.
Audinghen - church of St Pierre
I'm told the fish is indeed wonderful and fresh (although, like Sonny, I don't eat fish) and the coast has lots of other attractions - sandy beaches, lots of rock pools as well as museums dedicated to WW2. Batterie Todt at Audinghen, housed in a huge German-built blockhouse, has a fascinating collection of artifacts from the period.
Wissant - Le Vivier
The photo above shows one of the traditional Flobart fishing boats outside Le Vivier. Sadly this has gone but I believe the restaurant is as good as ever.
"‘Ah, I am sorry my friend, you don’t eat fish. I ’ope
you don’t mind if I do?’
‘Of course
not,’ Russell replied. ‘Just as long as I don’t have to.’ His eyes twinkled.
‘No, no. I
said there would be something special for you.’ The Frenchman was as good as
his word. Once seated at a table in the cosy restaurant Russell was presented
with a plate of slim asparagus spears, topped with a perfectly poached egg. He
was a little baffled by the scattering of dark crumbs on the dish. ‘A-ha!’ said
the Frenchman. ‘That is the surprise. Do you know what it is?’ Russell shook
his head. ‘Truffles!’ Bruissement announced triumphantly. ‘The patron was out
early in the woods and brought them back, just for you. Taste,’ he said,
gesturing with his knife.
Russell
lifted a forkful of the egg and truffle to his mouth, chewed, then swallowed. ‘Mmm.
Slightly earthy, a little like mushrooms,’ he said reflectively."
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